Below is a copy of an email Jon Satterfield sent me regarding removal of CA emissions for your VTR.   Of course, this is ONLY for "race only" bikes or VTRs purchased in CA and then moved to another state.   I cannot verify the accuracy of the instructions because I don't have a CA bike, but nothing was mentioned on the mailing list about them being incorrect, so I'll take his word for it.   Thanks again, John!
John Holland wrote these instructions for removing the emission control system in 1998. I have added notes to clarify it and point out one item I thought was wrong. I would suggest having a shop manual and referencing pages 1-28 and 1-29 before starting the job. "These are instructions to completely remove the CA Evaporative Emission Control System. I hate unneeded complexity. I chose to jerk everything largely because of the mess of hoses, brackets and controllers. Removing all this stuff gains a fair bit of space around the carbs. There will also be some small weight savings. This is not a simple operation. To complete it, you'll have to remove the tank, airbox, and front fairing. Tools are required. You'll need a selection of vacuum caps - available at most auto part stores. Sorry I don't have exact sizes. (Note from Satterfield Vacuum caps rot and crack easily. I use short steel rod (cut off nails) to plug the lines instead.) ------------------------ Carbon Canister: The hose on the left side of the canister vents behind the chin fairing. Pull that hose out from the chin fairing area and leave dangling. #1 hose (small diameter): Fuel tank vent to carbon canister. Pull this hose off the right side of the canister and route behind the chin fairing. *IMPORTANT* This hose must be vented to atmosphere. (Note from Satterfield I rerouted the #1 hose to eliminate the low spot to avoid problems with fuel being trapped in the low spot and not allowing the tank to vent properly. I don't have the chin fairing on and couldn't leave the stock routing anyway.) #4 hose: Remove from right side of the canister. (This hose goes to the PCV and will be dealt with later.) Remove the canister. Throw in a corner of the garage. (Anyone think it funny how large the bolts are that hold the canister to the brackets?) ------------------------ Carburetor Air Vent (CAV): First, remove the tank and airbox. (If you haven't already removed the PAIR system, now would be a dandy time to do so, or at least disable it.) (Note from Satterfield Remove the entire system, plug the hole in the bottom of the air box and plug the small hose that controls the PAIR valve. Plug the hole on the PAIR check valve on each cylinder head.) The PAIR valve is the one screwed to the bottom of the airbox. The CAV is between the carbs and has four hoses running into it, one small and three medium. (Note from Satterfield Both valves are controlled by hoses that are marked #10. They do not come from the same source.) #10 hose (small diameter): Controls the CAV. Remove from the rear of the front intake port and block the port attachment with a small vacuum cap. (Note from Satterfield Better yet leave the hose on the intake manifold fitting and plug the end of the hose. Then use this as vacuum tap when syncing the carbs.) #6 hoses (medium diameter, 2): Carb float bowl vents to CAV. Remove from the CAV and leave dangling between the carbs. *IMPORTANT* These hoses must be vented to atmosphere. #4 hose: Goes to the PCV. Remove from the CAV and leave dangling. Remove CAV bracket and pull out the CAV and one attached hose. ------------------------ Purge Control Valve: The PCV resides behind the right radiator. In order to access it, the radiator bolts need to be removed and the radiator pulled out a little. #11 hose (small diameter): Controls the PCV. Remove from the rear of the front intake port and block the port attachment with a small vacuum cap. Hose #5 : From PCV to carbs. Remove the hose from the PCV to the T fitting near the carbs and block the T with a vacuum cap. (Note: from Satterfield I believe this is incorrect. The induction system is designed for #5 to pull air through the Evap Canister into the intake manifold. The bike runs very rich when these lines are plugged, I tried it. I use a small fuel filter in the line and vent to atmosphere.) Remove PCV bracket bolt and pull out the PCV and three attached hoses. ------------------------ To double check, the front intake port should be blocked at two points (right beside each other). The carbs should have two vented hoses and two hoses meeting in a blocked T (see note above). The fuel vent hose should be vented. Everything else should be gone. Re-install the airbox, don't miss re-connecting the four large hoses, two front, two rear. Re-connect the right radiator. Re-install the tank and fairing. If your bike starts running like crap, you did something wrong - namely, blocking a hose that need to be vented. Enjoy, John Holland"